Wednesday, 29 August 2012

Trip to Qatar


This trip to Qatar is the first one to the Gulf I've taken, so I had high expectations for it. Ever since the beginning of my Arabic education, I've looked at the Gulf (Saudi, Bahrain, UAE, Qatar, and Oman) with perhaps a bit more interest than the rest of the Arabic speaking world. I've heard many stories of the great strides places like Dubai and Abu Dhabi have made in infrastructural developments, with Doha supposedly using those places as a rough blueprint to follow.
Probably the first observation I made about this place is that the street system is so much more American than anything else I've discovered in the Middle East. Aqaba in southern Jordan had a similar system, but that was a minor city largely there due to tourism and foreign exports. Qatar, however, has adopted a quite American system of roads and highways, with the exception of the ubiquitous roundabouts, which are probably my most favorite aspect of the traffic system here. You have to approach them with boldness as they are more or less a constant stream of cars in a circle. Doha is also very clean, almost all businesses and restaurants are closed by 1100, and many cars are exactly the type you'd see in the States. The best way I can describe it would be like a generic medium-sized American city, albeit with a much more foreign population. Indians, Pakistanis, various European nationalities, and Arabs from seemingly all Arab countries are present here, making it a very cosmopolitan place. Qataris are easily-noticeable for their white robes and head scarves, the latter of which is secured on the head by a black cord.
In a lot of ways, Qatar is an aberration from the normal concept of a country. Sure, it has its problems and future dilemmas, but it has a small native population and the sands are awash in natural gas and petroleum. They have much space and are very effective at draining the sea and building upon it. It's actually a quite regulated society, perhaps moreso than even the US; I took a boat ride to go fishing and we first had to seek permission from the maritime port authorities. The definition of work and responsibility for many Qataris is quite unlike what we in the US are used to. Most people have annual vacation leave measured in months, and Qataris are often times preferred for hiring over foreign nationalities. Most people I have met only have a high school education, while those who have gone to university hold rather high positions in government. It really is a quite unique place unlike any one I've been to before.
Development here is happening at an impressive rate. The Doha skyline already is imprinted with the motivations and visions of world-renowned architects, such as a cylindrical tower that is normally all silver but changes colors, and another one that is decorated with giant blue LCD lights and is in the shape of a skinny Coke can but pinched in the middle. Many of these towers were not standing as recently as 4 years ago, and a large portion of them are yet to be completed. Furthermore, work on building the infrastructure and stadia for the 2022 World Cup is yet to begin, which will certainly leave a mark on the city.
Most Qataris have great faith in the current government; I've to date not heard one word of anti-government remarks, as the Emir is seen as being an effective and just ruler with his country's best interests in mind. Qataris have benefited greatly from his rule, as he's done an effective job of opening the city to foreign investment but not at the cost of losing a national identity. Qatar, like many states blessed/cursed with plentiful oil, is working earnestly to prepare for a post-oil economy. The government has a goal to meet budget requirements from resources other than fossil fuels, a goal it hopes to meet by 2020 or so. I've really enjoyed this trip and definitely want to return in the near future.

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