Trip to Qatar

This trip to Qatar is the first one to the Gulf I've taken, so I had high expectations for it. Ever since the beginning of my Arabic education, I've looked at the Gulf (Saudi, Bahrain, UAE, Qatar, and Oman) with perhaps a bit more interest than the rest of the Arabic speaking world. I've heard many stories of the great strides places like Dubai and Abu Dhabi have made in infrastructural developments, with Doha supposedly using those places as a rough blueprint to follow.

Probably the first observation I made about this place is that the street system is so much more American than anything else I've discovered in the Middle East. Aqaba in southern Jordan had a similar system, but that was a minor city largely there due to tourism and foreign exports. Qatar, however, has adopted a quite American system of roads and highways, with the exception of the ubiquitous roundabouts, which are probably my most favorite aspect of the traffic system here. You have to approach them with boldness as they are more or less a constant stream of cars in a circle. Doha is also very clean, almost all businesses and restaurants are closed by 1100, and many cars are exactly the type you'd see in the States. The best way I can describe it would be like a generic medium-sized American city, albeit with a much more foreign population. Indians, Pakistanis, various European nationalities, and Arabs from seemingly all Arab countries are present here, making it a very cosmopolitan place. Qataris are easily-noticeable for their white robes and head scarves, the latter of which is secured on the head by a black cord.

In a lot of ways, Qatar is an aberration from the normal concept of a country. Sure, it has its problems and future dilemmas, but it has a small native population and the sands are awash in natural gas and petroleum. They have much space and are very effective at draining the sea and building upon it. It's actually a quite regulated society, perhaps moreso than even the US; I took a boat ride to go fishing and we first had to seek permission from the maritime port authorities. The definition of work and responsibility for many Qataris is quite unlike what we in the US are used to. Most people have annual vacation leave measured in months, and Qataris are often times preferred for hiring over foreign nationalities. Most people I have met only have a high school education, while those who have gone to university hold rather high positions in government. It really is a quite unique place unlike any one I've been to before.

Development here is happening at an impressive rate. The Doha skyline already is imprinted with the motivations and visions of world-renowned architects, such as a cylindrical tower that is normally all silver but changes colors, and another one that is decorated with giant blue LCD lights and is in the shape of a skinny Coke can but pinched in the middle. Many of these towers were not standing as recently as 4 years ago, and a large portion of them are yet to be completed. Furthermore, work on building the infrastructure and stadia for the 2022 World Cup is yet to begin, which will certainly leave a mark on the city.

Most Qataris have great faith in the current government; I've to date not heard one word of anti-government remarks, as the Emir is seen as being an effective and just ruler with his country's best interests in mind. Qataris have benefited greatly from his rule, as he's done an effective job of opening the city to foreign investment but not at the cost of losing a national identity. Qatar, like many states blessed/cursed with plentiful oil, is working earnestly to prepare for a post-oil economy. The government has a goal to meet budget requirements from resources other than fossil fuels, a goal it hopes to meet by 2020 or so. I've really enjoyed this trip and definitely want to return in the near future.

Cairo

Cairo, “land of the mummies,” ground zero of the Arab Spring. Sitting on the bridge known for the video of the riot truck running over protesters, it's bumper to bumper traffic, incessant honking, a non-stop swarm of humanity. Brown, dusty, hot, alive with a constant hum of humanity.

A mosque rises next to rows of the ubiquitous cinder block housing, dull but effective at combating the constant fight against an exploding population. Advertisements of western-made amenities overlooking a constant flood of election banners. Teams of youth walk the streets, most likely many of whom are responsible for the downfall of a once vaunted security apparatus, an event that shocked the world.

Busy 8 lane highways flanked by tiny attempts at road-side convenience stores. A couple sitting on their 10 story balcony drinking tea, under a canopy of tangled electrical and TV cords as convoluted as the political system.

Everywhere you look, people are busy. Working, buying food, driving home. These are the people that brought down the Mideast's supposedly most firmly-entrenched political system. A people tired of revolution and wanting to regain a semblance of stability, some are anxious, others are increasingly hopeful, that the recent elections will produce positive results.

This is real humanity, not a Saudi investor's pet project of building an artificial city along the sea to coax more tourist dollars. Everywhere you look, there is no shortage of political graffiti, Islamic slogans, and unfortunately, trash. And lest one forget, the Great Pyramids overlook the city, reminding you that this is, in fact, Umm ad-Dunia, Mother of the World.

It's not pretty, but it is colossal. East meets West, Islamic meets secular, rich meets poor. Certainly, dichotomizing leaves major societal elements out of the discussion. But it is hard to completely encompass exactly what is Cairo, Africa's largest city.

Traveling

Coming back from a trip to Hurghada on the Red Sea, it's 8:00 pm and we still have about 4 hours of bus ride left. One day of class tomorrow separates us from a trip to Sharm al-Sheikh, also on the Red Sea but in Sinai.

It's easy sometimes to get used to the traveling and sight seeing. But then sometimes it's impossible not to pinch yourself and realize just how lucky you are. I've been able to travel to the Mideast on 5 different occasions, to 4 different countries. In the process I've made countless friends and spent many moments like this wondering why it's me who gets to experience this.

Eleven hours on a bus makes time for a lot of contemplation and reminiscing of what I've seen and where. The Arab Spring in Yemen, the Wall between Israel and Palestine, the Pyramids, countless Roman ruins in Jordan, etc.

I've talked with a multitude of people in more than one dialect about a plethora of issues. I've seen the pollution of Cairo, the still extant remnants of the great Hellenic civilization in Alexandria, and the old city of Sana'a, one of just a few claimants to the title of oldest inhabited city in the wall.

But I think what is the most fulfilling about all of this isn't the pictures, nor the artificial cities along the coastline meant to attract European euros and American dollars. Instead, it's the countless people you interact with, the feeling of speaking to someone in their native language while hordes of Russian tourists thumb their noses at the locals, only desiring to get away from their reality somewhere far away.

It's the ability to be with 3 other people in a foreign land and take a 9 hour bus trip, just because, made possible by friends and friends of friends who are incredibly willing to host you, to a level of hospitality that is hard to grasp.

People back home always marvel at me traveling, as it most definitely is an irregularity. And I'm under no illusions that I'm incredibly privileged to be able to do this at a young age, and many people would love to but just can't.

But there are also those people who are more interested in spending their money on other pursuits, thinking that these trips are fruitless or perhaps a bit unusual. Still yet, there are those back home who could travel, yet simply have no interest in doing so. Also are those are choose to live in a land of great luxury, and yet denigrate it for minor deficiencies.

America certainly has its problems, not the least of which is a large unemployed or disadvantaged class. One need only look at Inner City America to see what real poverty is. However, I argue that traveling isn't an escape from a place I don't like, but a worthwhile venture that gives me a greater appreciation for where I come from. I have seen some interesting places, but everyday I talk to at least one person desperate for a visa to the US. I probably get begged 5 times a day by people struggling to feed their families. I live my life here in an incredibly inefficient social and business atmosphere.

I never knew what the meaning of home was until I came back from Egypt for the first time 2 years ago. Seeing the other side of the world makes a person really appreciate that neck of the woods they can call their own. The ability to know every street, speak a language without any difficulty, and easily blend in are definitely not to be underestimated. And it is only traveling that has given me that insight.

Week 1 Roundup

This is the first post of my blogging resurrection, and there is much to recap.

Anyone who knows me, knows that I've been here in Alexandria before, in 2010 for a summer program. This time I'll be here for a year, until May 30, studying Arabic again at the University of Alexandria.

Since my last trip here, I've traveled to Yemen, Palestine, and Jordan twice, thus have three different countries and a few more cities with which to compare Alexandria. In contrast to before, I realize now how unique this city is. Before, it to me was "Arabia," as ambiguous as that term is, but now I can definitely see the effects that the French and British have left on the place, whereas such influences are not as evident in other places I've visited.

There is not quite as much turmoil or tension as I expected. I know from Yemen that most people are more interested in going about their daily lives than throwing rocks or spray painting, but I am a but underwhelmed by the lack of a revolutionary spirit.

That all could soon change though. Yesterday, it was announced that a part of parliament has been dissolved, due to suppposedly erroneous legalities in the document that outlined how certain members were to be elected. This, naturally, is a big development, but in a few days it will be overshadowed by the election for the last remaining presidential candidates, Ahmed Shafiq and Muhammad Morsi. The former is seen by many as being a holdover from the Mubarak era, while the latter is what many consider a poor alternative to that era, he of the Muslim Brotherhood.

It was somewhat expected that there would be a protest today against the dissolution of parliament, but many think that potential protesters are waiting to see the outcome of the election. What could follow is really anyone's guess.

The past week has largely been about readjustment, which hasn't been drastic at all, and settling in before classes. We have a good group and everything should be interesting. We're all waiting for classes to begin Monday, as well as for further developments in the election realm. Until then.